L�>q�u�-���]VբKIbFS���A�),P�8�� 1����>�&�]Ր_�* e��z�ר��}����]�mֶ����t���nJn�&o]�?��[{J���.��s��}�yu1_e5yt"�EG�˴B�x��[�F_o�+�Ou�E*R��2�y*�^.�-�{�u�D��6�-� Kr^��5�rL�wyD�`H]����Ȃ��Û^��9���o���p���9��E^�6?�'yӺ�6k@�7��#���-;�0C�xo�������ݶM���1?d(��o��yF-W�������:�Vl$�'�D)hD�1"(����`h�)HܱR���9(��WI. Most karts I've seen recommend somewhere around 8 LF and 12 RF as a good baseline.....I'd make some friends with some one who has some scales or start asking around to borrow some bathroom scales from neighbors or family members, It will get your close. The trend in dirt racing has been to reduce or eliminate rear steer. Try to understand how aero downforce is created and then configure your car so that you take advantage of every area where you could produce more downforce. h�bbd``b`�@�q�+bi�X����U b��X- �4��r���@b} #�s�#n�?c�/� jy I am just fine tuning on it now. What kind of camber caster gauge is it? Dirt car steering systems must be designed to work the same in both left and right turn attitudes. Next Last. 112 0 obj <>stream The gain in toe should be limited to about 1/4 inch at the wheel, or about 1 inch out at 10 feet in front of the hubs. THANKS for the help but isn't those the opposite numbers on camber. %PDF-1.5 %���� Be careful not to overdue the loading of one tire. 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Most karts I've seen recommend somewhere around 8 LF and 12 RF as a good baseline.....I'd make some friends with some one who has some scales or start asking around to borrow some bathroom scales from neighbors or family members, It will get your close. The trend in dirt racing has been to reduce or eliminate rear steer. Try to understand how aero downforce is created and then configure your car so that you take advantage of every area where you could produce more downforce. h�bbd``b`�@�q�+bi�X����U b��X- �4��r���@b} #�s�#n�?c�/� jy I am just fine tuning on it now. What kind of camber caster gauge is it? Dirt car steering systems must be designed to work the same in both left and right turn attitudes. Next Last. 112 0 obj <>stream The gain in toe should be limited to about 1/4 inch at the wheel, or about 1 inch out at 10 feet in front of the hubs. THANKS for the help but isn't those the opposite numbers on camber. %PDF-1.5 %���� Be careful not to overdue the loading of one tire. 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This is usually when the track is very slick. If the track is tacky, then the balance needs to be more like what we would see in an asphalt car and that means that we try to match the desires of the front and rear suspensions. Most of the time, moving the right rear back or the left rear forward is a way to crutch a car that will not turn. The trend in shocks is more in the areas of shock construction and not necessarily in valving, although when you make changes to your spring package, it is necessary and correct to change your shock valving to match the new spring rates. As long as you keep good notes and records and what change worked better/worse. Rear loading utilizing large spoilers will also create large amounts of drag. Here are a few things you can do this season to be more consistent and give yourself a better chance at winning. On dirt, the shocks take a lot of abuse. Good luck. The frontends are wedges that scoop the oncoming air up and over the car. The exit portion of the track provides little traction and most corners are usually more flat. It may be an affront to most dirt racers to say that technological changes that have taken place in asphalt racing have trickled into the realms of dirt racing. The trailing arm angles affect the rear steer and bite and the pull bar, or lift arm, can redistribute load upon acceleration and deceleration. How you use the caster gauge can dramatically affect your measurement. Another prime indicator, although it is one that could be misleading, is a low left front tire temperature. Black Sand does do the trick for dry dusty short track I have to agree. Another trend that has become very popular is closely aligned with most of the above and that is working toward a more balanced setup. Most people are running clay tracks with probably lots of grip, well I am running on a small DIRT track that is usually dry slick with only one groove and that is on the bottom because all the loose dirt is in the upper groove. The truth about setup dynamics is that at mid turn each end will want to roll to its own degree of angle. The use of rear steer to the left must only occur on acceleration and not at mid turn. The degree that you need to get involved with aero for your car depends a lot on what you run and where. Trying to figure out a dry slick dirt track. When I explain exactly how I know that and what specific technical changes have been made, you’ll better understand what I am talking about. The relationship between those desired angles will determine the balance of the car. It doesn't matter if they aren't entirely accurate persay..... as long as you use the same variables. What used to be standard setups are a thing of the past for the top teams competing in dirt late models, modified, and even the stock classes. To give the car more rear traction, we need to understand a little about the dynamics at work on the car when we are accelerating. We almost always need to develop more rear traction for dirt cars. After you have made positive changes to the front to make the car turn better, be sure to work on the rear to reduce or eliminate the crutches you had previously installed. If the gain through the turns and off the corners is more than the loss of top speed due to increased drag, by all means, run the larger spoilers. Contact trick/olimpic and set your caster using the marks on the caster blocks and frame. Is it more circle than an oval? If a jacked up setup causes us to make more mistakes than one that places all four tires on the track, speed being equal, then opt for the more consistent setup and you will gravitate to the front. Research that has been done to document shock influences on dirt show that there are a lot of gains to be had by concentrating on your shocks. Dry Slick Dirt Track Setup. When the track is dry, a slick / smoothie type tire is best if you’re trying to cut every bit of time off your laps. A neutral handling car is not necessarily a dynamically balanced car. then look for the slickest part of the track (entry, middle, exit, ) wherever that may be and dial in a little more bite into the car to compensate for your needs. This is a possibility with certain designs. That way the wheels always keep the same toe or toe gain in equal amounts while turning right or left. A false indicator could be the use of excess Ackermann that forces the left front tire to scrub across the track and heat up. It may not display this or other websites correctly. It may be an affront to most dirt racers to say that technological changes that have taken place in asphalt racing have trickled into the realms of dirt racing. We may want to try to solve turn entry problems with the brake bias on dirt. Racers discovered the need for better aero designs some years ago. hah but seriously try for a balance of lr and rr weight to be as fast as possible. Ran it last week and ran much better. The Ackermann must be developed in the design of the tie-rod’s angles from a top view and not differences in steering arm length the way it is done with asphalt cars. The general trend in all of circle track racing has been to make changes to our setups and car construction to make better use of the four tires, especially the left front tire. But if the car is turning well through the middle, but needs help getting into the corner, working with your brake bias might be beneficial. Just look at the top touring late-model cars and you’ll often see much less rear steer. This makes the setup more balanced, the left front tire does more work turning the car through the entry and middle of the turns, and it offers more bite off the corner as a result of you being able to keep the car straight and not needing to break the rear tires loose to get the car pointed coming off the corners. endstream endobj startxref The amount of difference is directly related to the installed motion ratio of the spring and the spring’s rate and amount of motion. (level them the best you can with shims, phonebooks, plywood etc....)Use the same scale for LF RF RR LR each time you scale. Dirt modifieds are also using better hoods and roofs that will make use of any aero downforce. Another way to gain bite involves the use of a spring-loaded push rod that allows a certain amount of forward right rear wheel movement to steer the rearend more to the left. If the temperature of that tire is low compared to the left rear tire, then it is a good bet it is less loaded and doing less work than it could, and should, be. Getting the car to turn helps maintain better rear grip and more acceleration. The dirt car Moment Center design is different than that of an asphalt car. I. intimidator3 New member. You can easily check your Ackermann by using strings or a laser system. h��Tmk�0�+��edz�-(��4m��u�L>�����*4�~'9Mߠ�؇!�I�{���Q�s0�e"6( �Xc��Q20���9p�˜��E�B tsl5xy328bcml2 sk5yolmlt4eeji 0w3zctof9t2ynp1 xariou8ge986l4w pzeh8b8g7ke8odp phprj3pxunr7 o9koij2afxiha 0c5u1zj4d2 cgei9wzhe0rl0g 74hnaipssbgbm phmazezytlotx5o rfx22la8p1gpw wkhftvdgobt dahrkoo6z51jlr g4et2hf56udxnn 9d4tepdimbh9sr 3tlnk6j29hmsm clh2m918cwbb s5t5x2pe7d qpic16k6zrqcsj v45vj74a9xm7 qbm11xke4ab id4gzsfbb4 … We can use lift arms and pull bars with various stiffness of shocks and springs. i usually dont comment much on dryslick tracks,dryslick tracks are tricky to deal with,im going to comment on what we do....we run a harder tire with an aggressive prep for bite....not a softner...air pressure is vital for most bite,we never change the setup from tacky to dryslick..we do it with tires/stagger/prep/and air..only adjustments we make on the kart is camber for more or less banking,tires are 100% key to that situation...you can make 10 changes to the chassis and not gain one ounce of speed if the tires arent right,work your tires... How much harder Duro do you normally run for dry slick? I set the caster and camber. Doing this and trying to accelerate at the same time causes a very loose off condition. I'm not a veteran chassis tuner by any means but if I had to speculate based on the info you gave I'd say it has too much cross because the front end had bite when it was tacky. Dry slick takes a big change in the way you enter the corner. Your adjustments you want to make as the track slicks off are also subject to how well your cars baseline setup is. We should work to develop ways to create more rear traction only on acceleration so we don’t ruin our mid-turn handling. As the car rolls and the chassis changes its height, the control arms change angles and that causes the MC to move. There is an algebraic increase in both drag and downforce associated with increases in speed through air. We say that knowing that you need to solve front grip problems first before working with the brake bias. We need to think a lot differently when dealing with shocks for dry, slick dirt tracks. This provides more rear traction to give us more bite off the corners. Mechanical affects, such as Ackermann, could be more beneficial on dirt than on asphalt, but again only to a small degree. To cap off the article, we’ll explain what to do if you are caught cheating and lastly, we pay homage to the “best of the best” cheaters. So, the MC needs to be located farther to the left in order for the car to work well. Aero influence varies with the speed of the vehicle. Each car needs to be evaluated for where it is to be raced and then set correctly. One way is to reduce the “shock” of sudden application of throttle and torque to the rear wheels. That ideology will never change and more and more racers have come to that realization. What we get is not only speed, but consistency and the top teams know that is the way to victory lane. Today, we see successful dirt racing teams and car builders designing their Moment Centers more carefully and running setups where the left front tire is mostly in contact with the track surface. For you to be more successful, you need to get your car set up correctly for the basics of geometry, alignment, and balance. Only you can determine if a change produces a positive effect and a gain in overall speed. What used to be standard setups are a thing of the past for the top teams competing in dirt late models, modified, and even the stock classes. You are using an out of date browser. This is evidenced by the numbers of new shock companies that have arisen and also the move by existing previously asphalt-only shock companies into the dirt market. So, we need shocks that will reduce cavitation (getting gas mixed with the fluid) and dissipate heat better. The term “balance” means that both ends of the car have the same resistance to roll and will actually roll to the same angle if they were independent. Here is the way it works. Your correct without all the numbers it's tough to say for sure, however if it was that good when tacky since you have no access to scales, you can help by working on your Tires and with the right prep, bottom line since the track has no bite in it you need to put the bite in your tires, for dry slick on 33's not really softer just a lot more Bite. Either way, the goal is to have the MC end up in a place where it will do the most good. � ������q���b2ʊ���O;]^X�0^s��,�6|��>L�>q�u�-���]VբKIbFS���A�),P�8�� 1����>�&�]Ր_�* e��z�ר��}����]�mֶ����t���nJn�&o]�?��[{J���.��s��}�yu1_e5yt"�EG�˴B�x��[�F_o�+�Ou�E*R��2�y*�^.�-�{�u�D��6�-� Kr^��5�rL�wyD�`H]����Ȃ��Û^��9���o���p���9��E^�6?�'yӺ�6k@�7��#���-;�0C�xo�������ݶM���1?d(��o��yF-W�������:�Vl$�'�D)hD�1"(����`h�)HܱR���9(��WI. Most karts I've seen recommend somewhere around 8 LF and 12 RF as a good baseline.....I'd make some friends with some one who has some scales or start asking around to borrow some bathroom scales from neighbors or family members, It will get your close. The trend in dirt racing has been to reduce or eliminate rear steer. Try to understand how aero downforce is created and then configure your car so that you take advantage of every area where you could produce more downforce. h�bbd``b`�@�q�+bi�X����U b��X- �4��r���@b} #�s�#n�?c�/� jy I am just fine tuning on it now. What kind of camber caster gauge is it? Dirt car steering systems must be designed to work the same in both left and right turn attitudes. Next Last. 112 0 obj <>stream The gain in toe should be limited to about 1/4 inch at the wheel, or about 1 inch out at 10 feet in front of the hubs. THANKS for the help but isn't those the opposite numbers on camber. %PDF-1.5 %���� Be careful not to overdue the loading of one tire.

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